Conveniently, its cable colours matched the internal end of the existing gameport cable (black - shield, black - ground, red, white, green). I had a Logitech USB mouse in my box of electronics-to-be-recycled. The socketed cable can easily be removed from the PCB. Now you can lift and pry the base of the joystick apart and gain access to the gameport cable connector. Once this is up, the throttle and the rubber sleeve will sit loosely and can be moved around. The hex screws on this plastic ring are decorative and they don’t screw out. Use gentle prying with a flathead screwdriver to pop up the ring that sits over the throttle. You do not need to disconnect or disassemble the bit containing the hat and the other thumb buttons. The trigger and 2 of the top buttons will come out. Undo the plastic latch on the bottom of the shelf for your hand and you should be able to gently separate the 2 halves of the joystick’s handle. Turn it back right side up.ĭisassemble the joystick starting with the 4 screws in the handle (2 are at the bottom behind the rubber sleeve). This video shows how the pieces come apart: įlip the joystick over and remove the 5 or so screws from the base. Since I didn’t, I decided to replace the built in gameport cable with a USB cable. If I had a gameport cable with the right end on hand, I likely would have built an external adapter to replace the original. The original USB adapter would have worked fine if I still had it.īuying the Belkin adapter (advertised as for a Sidewinder) ought to work, according to (though you may have to short pins 2 and 7 yourself). This included all the pinout information required to build the adapter. With Google I found the forum post at, which helpfully linked to. If that was true, I could build a new adapter. Reading the section “Later Digital Joysticks” of made me realize that the joystick’s original adapter might have been passive - no protocol adaptation required. Plugging it in resulted in the adapter being detected fine by Windows, but not behaving like a joystick was actually attached to it. Joystick Rehab’s description said “Mode S - Logitech ADI Joystick (for Logitech Wingman Digital, and Logitech Wingman Extreme Digital)” and I didn’t notice the name didn’t include “3D”. I bought a Mayflash Super Joy Box 7 gameport-to-usb adapter from (US site). I knew I needed to replace the USB adapter.
I thought it would be fun to set it up and play TIE Fighter again, before deciding whether to keep or toss it. I knew it originally came with a USB adapter, but it was missing. Among them was my Logitech Wingman Extreme Digital 3D. When I went home to visit my family for Thanksgiving, Mom dug out a few boxes that had been packed away since I left for university.
After losing the original gameport-to-usb adapter for my Logitech joystick, I tried a 3rd party converter, found out that the joystick speaks USB natively, then replaced the joystick’s cable with a direct wired USB cable.
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